Thursday, March 28, 2013

Ricotta Cream Brulee

I love Easter.  Not because of all the candy and the hats, new clothes and shoes and the fact that it's spring!  That's not to say that there's anything wrong with a nice, big, solid chocolate bunny, but I love Easter because it was the first holiday that I was responsible for when I got married.


I took that responsibility seriously.  I cooked everything that anyone could possibly want on any given Easter Sunday.  Brunch, lunch, soup to nuts and everything in between, you name it, I cooked it.  I look back now and I have to shake my head in amusement at the things I pulled off.  Such as the Easter morning I served brunch to family and friends on the beach--we lived in Southern California, going to the beach wasn't a big deal.  I prepared boil-in bag omelets, and we hauled a camp stove, water and a dutch oven to the beach--with small children, their needs, coolers, chairs and stuff.  We set up a canopy, started the stove, set out all the tasty things to add to our omelets as well as homemade cinnamon rolls, coffee cakes, juices, coffee, you name it, I had it, and we got down to the business of making brunch.  Other than some wind and a bit of sand, it was a success.  We all enjoyed it, we had a great time, the kids loved it, I swore I'd never do it again.

I've also had Easter dinners where I made ham, lamb, scalloped potatoes, potato salad, pilaf, spinach salad, macaroni salad, cole slaw, baked beans, roasted asparagus, fruit salad, pies, cakes, rolls and cheesecake.  In my defense, I just wanted everyone to have something that I knew they would really like.  Today, I'm older and wiser and I keep things much simpler.  With culinary exhaustion there comes wisdom. 

But simple doesn't have to be boring.  As a chef, I always looked for the big payoff in flavor and weighed that against the time I had to pull it off.  Cakes and pies are great; you can make a dazzling cake and everyone oohs and aahs over it and then you cut it.  That's why individual desserts are such a standard today.  But even they have to be special.  And in my mind, there's not much more appealing than a brulee.


And here you're thinking how much trouble it is to make a custard, strain it, get it into ramekins placed in a pan and then make sure you don't splash boiling water on yourself, the hot oven or into the delicate custard as you fill the pan with water for a bath to coddle the custards.  Not this time.

Ricotta cream is a lovely mixture of drained ricotta, sugar or honey, some flavoring and a nice bit of time spent hanging out in the fridge.  No cooking.  Not a bit of it.  No water bath, no straining custard, no stress.  And the best part of all is this can be done the day before.  



I like to use whole milk ricotta, but if you're looking for ways to shave some calories, you can use the ricotta of your choice.  The taste will be slightly different, but weigh that against the extra time spent on the tread mill and do what works best for you.

Layer a fine mesh sieve with a layer of paper towels, set it over a bowl and spoon your ricotta in.  Let it drain for a couple of hours in the refrigerator, preferably overnight.  Easy, right?



When the ricotta is drained, throw away the water that collected and place the drained cheese into a bowl.  Add the remaining ingredients (I also love this recipe using honey and lemon or honey and lavender--mmmmm!), stir well and scoop into ramekins.  Place a piece of plastic wrap on each ramekin, being sure to make contact with the ricotta.  That keeps a skin from forming and ensures a nice creamy pudding under the lovely, burnt sugar topping.


When you're ready to serve, place the chilled puddings on a heat proof surface, such as a couple of stacked cookie sheets.  Let them sit at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes to allow the dish itself to warm so it doesn't crack under the heat it takes to brulee--or burn--the sugar. Sprinkle with the sugar, and torch them.  If you don't have a torch, place the tray under the broiler of your oven until the sugar melts and  bubbles.  I always garnish because, hey, it's special and it gives that big payoff return for little effort that I'm looking for.


If you don't want to play with broilers and torches on Easter Sunday, though I think flames always gives just the right amount of added danger to any family gathering, you can still garnish the un-bruleed top of this dessert with fresh fruit--strawberries macerated in a wonderful, sweet and syrupy balsamic vinegar comes to mind.  Served with a crisp, biscotti or two and a cup of coffee and you have the perfect, light ending to your holiday feast. 



However you want to serve Ricotta Cream, bruleed or simply garnished with fresh fruit, give this simple but spectacular dessert a try.



And now I'm thinking how nice a little stewed spring rhubarb compote would be the perfect topping for this dessert...

Ricotta Cream Brulee

  • 1  cup drained whole milk ricotta for each 1/2 cup serving
  • 2  tablespoons honey
  • 1  teaspoon lemon zest (being extra careful to only grate the skin and not the bitter pith below)
  • 1 1/2  tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • Additional sugar to brulee--2 tablespoons per serving
Combine and mix all ingredients, adjusting to your desired level of sweetness and lemon flavoring.  Spoon into ramekins, cover and chill at least 2 hours until ready to brulee.  If desired, you can spoon into a serving dish, top with fresh fruit and serve immediately.  I like fresh strawberries, slightly sweetened and mixed with a good balsamic vinegar.   Sweetened berries alone are perfect. 

To brulee, remove chilled  ramekins.  If placing under a broiler, heat the broiler.  Sprinkle 2 tablespoons sugar over each custard, carefully shaking to cover the entire surface.  Place ramekins on cookie sheet and position under the broiler.  Broil for approximately 2 minutes or until sugar is bubbling and browned.  Remove from broiler and let sit for 5 minutes before serving.  Careful, the ramekins may be hot.

If using a torch, place ramekins on inverted cookie sheet.  Turn on torch and carefully caramelize the sugar, being careful not to burn the sugar or melt the ricotta cream.  Let the creams sit for 5 minutes before serving to give the sugar a chance to cool and harden.

Finish with a fresh strawberry garnish and enjoy!

Printable Recipe



Thursday, March 21, 2013

Salted Chocolate Caramel Matzo Crunch


I can’t resist a buy something get something free sale.  Well, truth is, I can resist them but I don’t like to.  This week has been a prime example. 




Here in New York where I live, our grocery stores give away a huge case (seriously huge!) of matzo with your groceries.  Everyone picks up a package because the things you can do with matzo is nigh on endless!  My friend’s son loves it with butter and cinnamon sugar, another friend makes lasagna.  I have seen recipes for S’Mores, cakes (of course) granola, pancakes, crumbled and used as a crispy coating on baked chicken,  the base for chocolate bark, in place of nacho chips, as well as the perfect conveyor of lox and cream cheese, dips, Nutella, and even PJ&J!  And that’s just the beginning.  Really, it’s quite versatile, this humble cracker.  But what do I make with mine?  I make Salted Chocolate Caramel Matzo Crunch!  


You may be more familiar with this recipe as Soda Cracker Candy.  Most everyone has a recipe for this, with either soda crackers or matzoh.  The first I became aware of using matzo in place of crackers was from David Lebovitz of davidlebovitz.com , who adapted his recipe from Marcy Goldman of the amazing website betterbaking.com who was the first to use matzo in this recipe.  David Lebovitz adds vanilla and salt to his caramel, Marcy is a purist and lets the caramel do all the talking.  Me?  I don’t add the vanilla, but I sprinkle the top of my chocolate slathered caramel with coarse salt. 




Here’s the beauty of this recipe; it’s flexible.  No brown sugar or matzo crackers?  No problem, use white sugar and soda crackers.  Only dark brown sugar, perfect, you’ll have a robust caramel flavor.  Want to serve these for Passover?  Feel free to use unsalted Passover margarine in place of the butter.   Most people finish theirs with a sprinkle of coarsely chopped nuts and when I do, I like to use candied pecans that I’ve made.  In the past, I’ve also used those wonderful little pieces of Ghiradelli Caramel Squares in place of chocolate chips.  I unwrap them while the crackers are in the oven then lay them, imprinted side down on the hot caramel and let them sit until you see that the heat has melted the chocolate.  I then give the pan some gentle taps (or drop it from an half an inch or so above the table!!) to schooch (that’s a real pastry term!) the chocolate without breaking through to the caramel sandwiched within the chocolate.  Admittedly, you need to use more chocolate since you aren’t spreading it around, but I’ve never seen the down side of that!  Is it over the top?  You had better believe it!  




The stack of matzo got me thinking:  What else can I do with this recipe to make it more versatile?  Do I have to use only chocolate on this?  Why not white chocolate?  This recipe, whether you use matzo or soda crackers, is good enough to be served year round—why limit it to just Christmas or Passover?  Why not baby showers, Easter,  or just because?  Using Lindt white chocolate, I topped it with Easter M&M’s (mmmm!) and also colorful candy melts in spring colors.  But you could do red, white and blue for the 4th of July, school colors, match it for a bridal shower…the possibilities are unlimited. 



Because I was using white chocolate and would not be salting the top as I did with the dark and milk chocolate, I did add salt to the butter and brown sugar after I boiled the caramel.  I like the punch in flavor it adds, giving some depth and heightened flavor to the caramel.  If you're watching your sodium or like it your caramel extra sweet, leave out the salt. 
 
 

However you make it--with dark chocolate and salted, or for Easter with pastel, spring colors, with matzo or soda crackers, make it.  It's fast, easy, makes a great gift for your co-workers and friends, all because it's Spring!  Just remember to keep some for yourself!


Salted Chocolate Caramel Matzo Crunch


  • 3-4  Matzo crackers, broken to fit, or 35-40 soda crackers (about a sleeve)
  • 1  cup  unsalted butter, cut into pieces
  • 1  cup  packed brown sugar 
  • 1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate chips, milk chocolate or dark chocolate chips
  • 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons salt flakes
Preheat oven to 350°.

Line a jelly roll sheet pan with foil and lightly spray with cooking spray.  Place the matzo or crackers in rows, breaking as needed to fit.  Set aside.

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter and brown sugar.  Bring to a boil and boil for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally to insure caramel isn't sticking.  Pour over the crackers, spreading gently to completely cover.  If you are using soda crackers, they may float.  Gently put them pack into place and continue.

Bake in a 350° oven for 15 minutes.  Remove from the oven and sprinkle the chips over the top of the crackers and caramel.  When the chocolate has melted, spread with a spatula and sprinkle with salt flakes.  Allow to cool completely before cutting into pieces.  

Store in an airtight container.
  

Variation

When caramel is finished boiling, add 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, stirring to dissolve.  Pour over crackers and bake.  I used this method with the white chocolate matzo crunch.

Use white chocolate chips or white chocolate bars broken (I used 4 3.5 ounce Lindt White Chocolate bars), in place of semi-sweet, milk or dark chocolate chips.  Do not salt the top if using white chocolate.  Add a topping of M&M's or candy melts if desired.  Once the candy melts have melted from the heat of the caramel, you can swirl them for a nice effect.  Allow to cool completely before cutting.  If using white chocolate, the finished crackers will be a bit more delicate, but a little care when cutting and wiping the knife blade will yield great results. 

Printable Recipe 

Happy Passover!  

 


  

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Irish Soda Bread Pudding with Butterscotch Whiskey Sauce

I made a lot of Irish Soda Bread last week.  A bushel load of it.  I did my best to eat it, as did my husband who also shared with his co-workers.  And yet there was more.  Which brought me to a hard rule of pastry chefs:  When abundance happens, re-purpose it!


Which is exactly what I did.

I had my choice of tasty things I could have made; crumbled the bread and made a topping for a fruit crumble or to use in a torte. Sliced it thin, brushed it with melted butter and sprinkled some cinnamon on it, and toasted it in the oven for Irish Soda Bread biscotti--seriously delicious and good with tea.  But, I love bread pudding.  That wasn't always the case.  Bread pudding was too mushy, too egg-y, too bland or too filled with things I didn't like, e.g., raisins and citron.  Hey, I was a kid and they looked strange and had a weird taste.  But thank goodness, tastes change.


There are as many types of bread pudding as there are devotees.  From the simplest French Toast (bread soaked in a simple custard of eggs, milk, a touch of sweetener and flavoring) to rich puddings made from brioche, chocolate and studded with all manner of fruits and laced with spices, alcohol and everything in between.  Bread pudding isn't just for children or those recovering from the 'flu any longer.


But bread pudding from Irish Soda Bread?  Sure!  You don't even have to plump raisins, you already did that when you made the bread.  Despite it's humble beginnings, this isn't just any bread pudding, but a rich, buttery, decadent bread pudding.  With butterscotch sauce.  Make that butterscotch Irish whiskey sauce.  



I cut my Irish Soda Bread into cubes about 1 inch each.  I kept the crust of the bread, but I like the differing textures, but if you're a purist, go ahead and trim the bread of any really crusty pieces.  A trick I learned from a fellow pastry chef of tossing the bread pieces with melted butter and sugar gives this bread pudding a rich, buttery flavor in each bite.  Beating the eggs and sugar until they are light and lemon colored ensures that there are no overly egg-y bits and that the custard is light and the sugar dissolved.  Soaking it over night  allows all the flavors a chance to find every pocket, nook and cranny of the bread, giving you a light, softly textured pudding.  Make no mistake, though the texture is lovely, this bread pudding packs a flavor wallop in each tasty morsel.


I happen to think that no matter how good bread pudding tastes, it needs a topping.  And this butterscotch sauce is mouth wateringly good. And not just on bread pudding, but top some ice cream and sprinkle a handful of chopped pecans on top and you've made not only your tummy happy, but the ice cream will thank you.  Try this on baked apples or apple dumplings, drizzle some on pumpkin or apple pie...it's that versatile.  I keep mine in one of the clean jam jars that I'm forever saving for just such a need.  Keep the sauce refrigerated until needed.  You can warm it in a small pan on the stove or in the microwave in a microwave safe dish. 


Enjoy this dessert with a strong cup of coffee.  And since it's St. Patrick's Day this week, add a splash of Irish Whiskey, keeping with the holiday and all!

Irish Soda Bread Pudding with Butterscotch Whiskey Sauce



 Butterscotch Sauce


  • 1 cup (packed) brown sugar (I prefer light, but feel to use dark brown sugar)
  • 1/2 cup light corn syrup
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • 1 tablespoon Irish whiskey (optional, you can substitute vanilla if you would like) 

Pudding


  • 6 cups leftover Irish Soda Bread cut into 1/2” cubes  
  • 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted
  • 1 tablespoon plus 3/4 cups sugar
  • 3 large eggs
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • Pinch of kosher salt
  • 1 ½ tablespoons Irish whiskey
  • 1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise (you can use 1/2 teaspoon vanilla paste or 1 tablespoon vanilla extract)
  • 3/4 cups pecan pieces, coarsely chopped

Preparation

Butter a 9 x 13 ceramic or glass baking pan.  Set aside.

For the butterscotch sauce:  Bring brown sugar, corn syrup, butter, and salt to a boil in a medium
saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Boil about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and carefully add the cream and whiskey--it will bubble, be careful--and stir until smooth. Let cool.

For the pudding:  Toss bread, the melted butter and 1 tablespoon sugar in a large bowl and set aside.
With a mixer, beat eggs and remaining sugar in a large bowl until pale yellow and fluffy and the sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Add the whiskey and the vanilla seeds or extract to the cream and whisk to mix well.
Pour egg mixture over bread mixture.  Add pecans and toss to coat well.

Transfer mixture to the prepared glass or ceramic baking dish, spreading evenly in the dish. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 325°. Remove plastic wrap and bake until top is browned in spots and a tester
inserted into center comes out clean, 1 hour.  Be careful not to over bake.  Serve bread pudding with butterscotch sauce and a dollop of whipped cream, if you’d like.

Printable Recipe